New Disc brakes - what to do the numbers mean?

Need some help understanding what new brakes I need to buy.

I managed to bugger up my rear brake the other week at BPW (*see below if interested!) - bike shop sorted it all out along with a long overdue service, but one of the advisories is that the seals in the rear brake lever of my SRAM DB5 brakes are on their way out and so stopping power on the rear is a bit reduced. I've bed the new pads in and whilst the rear brake works its definitely not what it used to be in terms of pure stopping power.

So figured I might get some new brakes. Equivalent spec to the (I believe) discontinued DB5s is as far as I can ascertain something like the SRAM Guide R. Chain Reaction cycles have some here on clearance:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram ... prod174534

I could nab a couple for £110 ish, which given how much I know now brakes cost, doesn't seem too bad.

But I don't understand what all the numbers mean:
- Left hand front, right hand rear? is this because Europe does their brakes the other way around?
- Size 750mm 20PM, 750mm 40PM? Is this mount sizes? Whats the PM value?
- Size 800mm 20mm, 850mm 40mm? What is this referring to?
- 1300mm up to 1700mm? What does this denote?

I think I have 200mm rotors front and back, whatever was standard spec on a YT Capra AL in 2016. I should have saved it for future reference but forgot.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

*abysmal weather, biblical levels of rain and mud - a couple of hours of fun then an awful squealing noise at speed, followed by total lock up of the rear wheel 100 yds later; I hopped off, forced the pistons back so the wheel could rotate enough to get me down the rest of the run; 50 yds later even worse noises on a gentle exploratory brake and then a grinding crunch as the pads and metal Y mounts (whatever they're called) ingested themselves and locked everything up solid

Hi all.Need some help understanding what new brakes I need to buy.I managed to bugger up my rear brake the other week at BPW (*see below if interested!) - bike shop sorted it all out along with a long overdue service, but one of the advisories is that the seals in the rear brake lever of my SRAM DB5 brakes are on their way out and so stopping power on the rear is a bit reduced. I've bed the new pads in and whilst the rear brake works its definitely not what it used to be in terms of pure stopping power.So figured I might get some new brakes. Equivalent spec to the (I believe) discontinued DB5s is as far as I can ascertain something like the SRAM Guide R. Chain Reaction cycles have some here on clearance:I could nab a couple for £110 ish, which given how much I know now brakes cost, doesn't seem too bad.But I don't understand what all the numbers mean:- Left hand front, right hand rear? is this because Europe does their brakes the other way around?- Size 750mm 20PM, 750mm 40PM? Is this mount sizes? Whats the PM value?- Size 800mm 20mm, 850mm 40mm? What is this referring to?- 1300mm up to 1700mm? What does this denote?I think I have 200mm rotors front and back, whatever was standard spec on a YT Capra AL in 2016. I should have saved it for future reference but forgot.Any help appreciated.Thanks

Want more information on bpw brake disc? Feel free to contact us.

Drum brakes every time.
If you leave a trailer with disc brakes for more than a week or so the bloody brakes sieze on,they eat pads like there is no tomorrow and the discs tend to crack if your running at full weight.They are also more prone to brake fade.

For more information, please visit high-quality commercial brake pads.

Drums can absorb a lot more heat due to their size and you also have a much larger braking surface area. Maintainance is not really an issue as to change pads you have to ,in 99% of axles remove the wheels.With drums you just undo the hub nuts and pull the wheel ,brake drum and hub off as one assembly.To change the shoes takes about five minutes,repack the bearings and slide the hub assembly back on.Just chip the crud ring off around the edge of the drum and they slide on easy.
Can reline a tri axle BPW in about 3 hours.Just need a decent wheel dolly and maybe a good hub puller if the bearings fret to the axle lands.Just a ten minute bed in and your ready to go.Should last a good 80 to 100,000 km per reline.
Shoes are cheaper than pads and drums are cheaper than discs and calipers cost a bloody fortune.Just got to keep the camshaft bushes and slack adjusters greased and they last for years.If your going to wash and repack the inner bearing best to replace the hub seals but these are only a few quid.

Are you interested in learning more about heavy equipment brake pads price? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!