KaiZen
I have read a couple of real life handling guide for street and race cars. Most if not all of the information in them can be applied to GT3. The guide states that the stiffer your susespention is at one end of the car the less traction it will have. It also states that with stiffer rate response is increased due to more weight transfer. So when you hit a corner and brake weight is transferred to the front of the car which at this point will be steering. Your front springs and dampers and stabilizers are used to carry the weight. When you accelerate out of a corner weight will be transferred the back of the car. Stiffer would seem to be better the reason it is not is because, lets say you had a car frame with no suspension so full stiffness when you hit a corner weight is transferred instantaneously to the outside increasing its contact patch but is also lifting the inside tire contact patch almost to the point where both inside tires lift off the ground. This is bad because you want equal weight distribution at all states in handling. This also creates a problem because you have overloaded the outside tires while reducing the inside tires traction. So more weight transfer happens at the stiffer end of the car there by reducing traction. This means that which ever end needs more handling should get lighter spring damper and stabilizer rates. In contrast though weight will always be transferred and a little more weight at on end can help traction at that end but not to the point of tire overload.
Now to answer your question I have found that that softer damper at the end of the car that need grip is better. I will explain dampers a little damper bound is how fast a spring compresses or shortens lower rates mean slower compression higher rates mean faster compression. Again stiffer means more weight transfer. Damper rebound is how fast the spring uncompressed or returns to normal. Lower rates mean slower higher rates mean faster. Again stiffer means more weight transfer. Okay now when you accelerate the front rebound is used and the rear bound is used. In braking the front bound is used and rear rebound is used. In my opinion Bound is more weight receiving determiner and rebound is more responsible for weight transfer speed determiner. So let’s say you have a FR car you want more traction in the rear because your car is slipping in the rear due to a loss of traction. You could stiffen the front rebound making the weight shift to the rear a little quicker then lower the rear bound to increase traction at the rear which will now be able to handle the greater load this prevents some oversteer and traction loss or could also be said to increase understeer. Like stated above a little more weight at one end can help handling. The opposite lowering rebound and increasing bound will make a car loss more traction in the rear inducing oversteer or lowering understeer. In braking you could lower rear rebound making weight transfer slower to the front of the car while raising the front bound this will make your car oversteer at the beginning of a corner. The opposite high rear rebound and low front bound has the tendancy of making your car understeer at the beginning of a corner.
Now as I have found through Neon Duke that GT3 does bottom out cars if there ride height is either not high enough or does not allow for full suspension travel. This is why you can’t lower your car completely and make the suspension totally soft. This also makes your car respond to your steering feedback ultra slow. Stiffening suspension can help this problem. So in all you have to balance all of these factors to find the best rate for you.
I hope this answers your question.
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Re: Leaking Dampers (Shock Absorbers) : Can they be repaired?
Direct Answer - Piece of cake, its a famous business in most gujri markets. You will see colorful, shiny, bright shockers hanging like kebabs... thats the place that does the re-build of shocks- Piece of cake, its a famous business in most gujri markets. You will see colorful, shiny, bright shockers hanging like kebabs... thats the place that does the re-build of shocksThe CUT the shock (with a VISE and HACKSAW), since it comes factory sealed. They take out the old oil (assuming India is still >75% old gen hydraulic ones) - see if any tiny bushes/parts/misc needs replacement, refill with oil of your choice (YES!, question is usually "sir, what setting you want, hard, soft, medium") thick grease like oil is super hard and shock hardly compresses! Re-Seal the opened shock with a hammer and chisel and Voila - costs usually 150-300 for a bike or a jeep shock!No, have seen it being done for NUMEROUS taxi/sumo/indicas - they care a damn about ride quality, damper equality on left Vs right, so on! Sometime in I did this on my Bajaj boxers rear damper - couldnt even ride for a week, got a sore back!As GTO said - you got a car, spend like oneNo one said stick with T@$$ - they are too expensive - find the Automobile ROAD in your city, walk around for 2 hours, find the TATA spares stockist, bargain HARD since its all 4 shocks, you will save at least 20% compared to TASS. This is only half the effort - Then find a good local roadside mech, get the shockers fit with him, will charge max Labor (T@$$ will be more!)Best part - go to a shock rebuilder and sell your old ones for scrap, at least will fetch you a dinner for twocheers...
Last edited by svsantosh : 7th June at
21:32
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